Thursday September 8, 2011
Last week, The entire west coast was pumping with a super long interval south west swell. The same swell that blessed tahiti with epic surf for the Teahupoo contest began to show it's long lines here in Southern California just in time for the Labor Day weekend. Spots like the Wedge in Newport were pulling in massive peaks that were solid double overhead. With the high interval and size of this swell, lulls were the name of the game. It wasn't uncommon to wait 20 minutes in between 10 wave sets, but when they did come in they had lots of juice. Surprisingly there were a few spots in Santa Barbara that got some sets that must have made their way through the islands. Even a few of the points had the occasional odd direction set making for some fun rights. Spots were packed with people crawling out of the woodwork to have a go at the overhyped swell. All said and done, now that the ocean is back to it's normal september flatness, this swell will remain in the minds of everyone who got a chance to score. By the time this New Zealand born swell made it's way up the coast to Alaska the bouys were showing a 28 second interval. With normal big south swells being about 17-22 seconds, this just shows the intensity of this particular swell. Here is a shot of some waves in Ventura during a smaller day of this swell. I'm sure this set was 10 times bigger in Tahiti but still nice to see some lines rolling in.
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