Tuesday May 29, 2012
After surfing the left point, it was time to explore. Load up the truck and hit the road in the heat with visions of empty beachbreaks. Not so fast, as we hit a checkpoint within the first half hour of our drive. I'm not getting used to sight of machine guns, but all is good. We were back on the road after some attempts to speak broken spanish.
Soon after that, we found ourselves lost in the middle of some old city, right in the middle of the market, driving on sidewalks and getting strange stares... OK so we're obviously not from around there. Stop again, to ask another heavily armed group of policia for directions, these guys were cool, they told us the way to the beach. After seeing endless sugar cane feilds and some smoldering volcanoes, we found the beach that we were looking for. too late for surf though, time for cold cervezas and dinner!
As the Sun came up at five AM the next day we were up and ready to go. The tide was way too low for the beachbreak so we headed to a rivermouth by boat. This was in the middle of no where and pulling up from outside we couldn't tell if the waves were any good. All I saw was a strong rip, closeouts and super murky brown water. Not what I was expecting. So to get a better look headed into the river to get a view of the setup by land. It looked good and nothing like how it was 20 minutes ago from outback.
The tide was pushing and there were peeling lefts on one side with an identical right peeling off of the other side. The goofy footers outnumbered so I surfed the left. This time I was trying out the Eric Arakawa fins. I could tell the swell was picking up and these were kind of racy walls with a few sections but really long waves with plenty of good cutback sections and lips to hit. I felt really in control on a few waves that were head high, maybe a few feet bigger on sets. I liked the way these fins seemed to hold in, but the got loose when I wanted them to. They never slid out in critical sections just a good release with full control. Good fin selection for this wave. The wind was coming up, so it was time to head back. The beach was out of control closeouts and windy by now, but the tide and swell was supposed to be really good for the next day.
Another 5am wake up call and the surf was looking good, nice A-frames coming in on the beach with no wind. Finally an opportunity for some tubes...I chose to try out the Small Channel Islands fins on this particular day thinking that the waves were head high or so. This is where I was convinced that I could ride the smallest fins just by the way these waves looked. The peaks up the beach were so playful looking and fun. Not exactly, it was twice as big as it looked since there was no one out. About a foot and a half deep on hard packed sand. These were drop in under the lip kind of waves and just get shacked . take a deep breath and hope you make it out of a few.
Here is where I could have used a bigger set of fins, I saw this set bumping up on the horizon and a perfect right peak headed my way. This wave came in with some serious push, I paddled and made the drop, as I was about to come out of the bottom turn into a bus sized tube, fins skipped out and I lost it, dove straight into the wave and then got thrown down to the bottom for a solid hold down. I learned from this wave, after that I was able to just draw out the bottom turn and ride a little bit higher to stay in the right place to make it out of some good tubes...
All good, sometimes a nice hold down will get you ready for the next bigger set. I was able to pick off a few good ones after that, Just making sure not to push the bottom turns too hard. A great session overall and I'd recommend these CI small fins for head high and under. They worked really well at another beach break left that I surfed a bunch, it was about chest high there and more of a speedy long wall of a wave.
Overall having these 3 sets of fins was ideal. To handle any kind of wave there could be on that trip. I was a bit weary of having only one board but luckily I didn't break it. Miss the warm water waves and mellow vibe down south. Until next time...
Tuesday May 22, 2012
On a recent three week trip to Central America during the beginning of the south swell season, I was able to try to out 3 different sets of fins. I wanted to go minimal with my fin selection, so I brought 1 board, a 5'11 Simon Anderson squash tail, this would give me a chance to try 3 sets of fins. A small, medium and larger set for any kind of waves that I could find. It's amazing how much you can change the ride and feel of one board by simply changing fins...
There were a wide variety of waves ranging from super hollow barreling beachbreaks, long sweeping points, powerful outer reefs, and perfectly peeling sand bottom river mouths. The swell was consistently head high plus at most of the spots and a few days with close to double overhead.
My Choice of fins were:
Standard sized Channel Islands / Eric Arakawa / Channel Islands Small ( Some of my boards are FCS fins compatible, This time I had Futures Fins compatible setup, I think they are much easier to change out and a more solid base.)
LOCATION: The Point- FIN CHOICE: Channel Islands Standard- This spot had a wide sloping takeoff zone and then the wave would hit the edge of the reef for a short tube section. I wanted to start off with the Channel islands standard size set for this wave just to see what they could handle. Drops were easy and plenty of drive off of the bottom even on overhead sets. I noticed that since I was up and riding before the barrel section I could have time to setup and pull in with ease, going backside in a hollow spot I would probably use the larger fins but these CI Standards were holding in just fine, and not slipping out in the steepest sections.
Check out the next post for another session with the Eric Arakawa fins, as the surf picked up and headed north to some solid beachbreaks and a boats to a desolate rivermouth. Story/Photos: Ryan Kleiner
Wednesday March 28, 2012
Here is a very cool video clip of a day at rincon... This goes to show how many waves come through on a typical afternoon when there's swell. The tide, swell, and crowd can fluctuate drastically. Looks like it's the end of the NW swell season here in Santa Barbara, Looking forward to summer warmth and longer days now. Road trips to find south swell and small windswell will be the norm for the next few months.
Monday March 26, 2012
Here is a classic glass on single fin. This D-Fin has a height of 8.75 inches and a base of 9.5" A solid fin for sure, with greater depth and larger surface area, this fin will keep you on the nose...
Tuesday March 13, 2012
Here's a video clip of Peter Mendia scoring some epic right point surf over in Morocco. He's riding Proctor Surfboards and True Ames Fins and getting some nice tubes. The choice fins for these waves are the Lost Template available in FCS and Futures Compatible and Glass ons These fins are a tried and tested design that has high rake and slender tip for maximum projection. The classic Lost fin template is a full size design. Longer power turns are where this fin excels. Best in point or reef waves with some size. HEIGHT=4.70" / 119 mm BASE=4.65" / 118 mm
Thursday March 1, 2012
Here are the new shirts for Spring 2012. These designs are screen printed on super soft tees for ultimate comfort and a stylish fit. Take a look at the color selections here The Evolution Tee is a front print only with a 60% Cotton / 40% Polyester blend TA Logo Tee is a back print with a front left chest small logo. These are 100% cotton vintage soft fit. Sizes available are M / L / XL / XXL
Tuesday January 24, 2012
True Ames and Tyler Warren have teamed up to create some really unique glass on fins. These are hexcore RTM with solid glass on top. They are still super light and have a fine tuned flex.
Finally! Glass on quad fins These Tyler Warren quad fins have a flat foil on the front fins and 80/20 foil on the back fins. These are Solid RTM Hexcore and are super-light.
The Modern Keel This is a speedy fin design for a twin fin shape. A modern keel fin template by Tyler Warren. These are RTM Hexcore fins with solid glass on top. Super light and excellent flex. This Fin Features an 80/20 foil for smooth clean powerful turns.
Last but not least we are offering the "Bar of Soap Fin" The Tyler Warren Bar of Soap fin is designed for the small Twin fin "bar or soap board" These boards typically come in sizes 4'11" to 5'3" and are super wide and compact...Much of Tyler’s inspiration in designing the “Bar of Soap” came from his experience riding two of Richard Kenvin’s Hydrodynamica Project boards: The White Pony and Casper. Both of these boards were inspired by the hydrodynamic planing hull surfboards created by Bob Simmons 60 years ago
Tuesday January 3, 2012
Come and check out True Ames at the Surf Expo this January 12-14. We will be there with all of our latest fins... Everything from Stand Up Paddle fins, to our wide range of single fins, as well as system fins for FCS and Futures compatible. We'll be at booth #2065 - See you there!
Wednesday December 21, 2011
True Ames has a new fin template to offer. This is a Canvas / Christian Wach fin template. Its large area allows an old log to draw sincere lines on the nose, while the upright rake keeps the board lively on the tail.
Here is a trailer for the new Canvas surfboards movie:
Tuesday December 13, 2011
Here is an interesting concept. Going from a quad to 5 fins. This small trailer fin that Kelly Slater has bee riding lately adds more drive to the quad setup. Slater has been switching it up between a standard thruster and quads. Check out the True Ames version of this fin here.
5th Fin Production / Photo: Brandon Read
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